a Maraş dondurması stand in Eminönü |
What could be more appropriate in this fiendish heat than ice cream? If you live in Turkey or are visiting, you can enjoy a very special treat called Maraş Dondurması!
he knows I’m looking for a good photo! |
What makes it different?
The one single magic ingredient sahlep which is from the root of the wild orchid. I believe other Turkish ice creams also contain this as well as mastic but this particular one contains more.
Maraş ice cream is unique to Turkey and believed to originate from the region of Kahramanmaraş, north of Gaziantep in the southeast of the country, hence the name. Apparently it’s been made since the 18th Century.
It has an extraordinary consistency all its own: thick, sticky with a decided resemblance to taffy. It holds its shape so well, it can be eaten with a knife and fork!
… and here it is! |
The skilful vendors churn it regularly with long-handled paddles to keep it workable and are renowned for the games they play with unsuspecting customers, teasing them with twizzles and turns of the cone and making them gasp for fear the ice cream will fall off! There are also bells that they ring exuberantly as they pass the cone over! It’s quite a show – the tourists love it!
I was in Eminönü, a very traditional area in the old city of Istanbul last Monday. The Ramazan tent had already been erected in anticipation of all the iftar meals that will be served free of charge for the next 30 odd days to those breaking their fasts. Local municipalities have erected similar tents all over the city: they provide the facilities while different companies sponsor the food every night – a great piece of organization.
the Ramazan tent in Eminönü on Monday morning |
And then nearby I spied two of these Maraş Ice Cream stands. They are not usually there so I guessed they’d come to set up with the expectation of plying their trade in the hours after sunset when everyone is out and about relaxing after a hard day of fasting. I remember being surprised to discover that Ramazan evenings are fun!
It was quite early in the morning so nothing much was happening. I vowed to go back later to take some pictures. Sure enough, at approximately 5pm Eminönü was buzzing with activity and the vendors on both those stands were doing a brisk business – bells were ringing, goggle-eyed children watching: a fascinating spectacle!
Amazing Maraş dondurması! the green on the right is ground pistachios |
I’m not in Istanbul right now as we came down to Assos a couple of days ago but I’d love to mix with the people after dark in any of the more traditional areas like Eminönü or Üsküdar just to soak up the atmosphere of a Turkish Ramazan.
And perhaps to have a Maraş ice cream!
usually served in cones but also in cups or waffle sandwiches |
My dream is to visit turkey one day. I have heard so many nice things and seen so many beautiful pictures on your blog that make me want this even more. We planned to go many years ago with friends, but never did it.
I do hope you manage to make it one time, Ellen! It is so different, you would find it v interesting, I'm sure!
Ohh….this post is great. I love that gummy ice cream. Just the other day as we driving in the north part of the city I noticed on an empty store window a sign that said "Opening Soon…..Turkish Ice Cream".
Next couple of weeks I'm there in that part of the city and will check it out, to see if it has opened….my husband said he's also curious to see if it is that gummy 'dondurma' stuff.
When I was in Turkey the first time with my husband I thought he was kidding me about how they stretch that ice cream…but he wasn't when I saw it……so yummy. They actually do a show, it was so cute to watch….we are getting a lot more Turks immigrating here so lots of Turkish foodie restaurants are opening up and stores…so it's easier to get products from Turkey.
have a great day!!!! and enjoy your ice cream.
The ice cream is amazing, isn't it?? Tell me if the Turkish ice cream you saw advertised was Maraş! Have a look at the U tube videos too – they are really funny! Thanks for your lovely long comment, Erica :))
It is clear that life and food in Turkey is so different than anything I have ever experienced. The food's you write about I have usually never heard about let alone had the opportunity to taste. Obviously I have some catching up to do.
You'll just have to come with Shirley and experience it all for yourselves!!!
I've never seen anything like that before Claudia, thanks for sharing it with us. x
Thank you for this wonderful post! I feel like I'm getting to know Turkey through your blog – so much fun :))
Mary x
It's a little bit of info that perhaps you wouldn't ever find out … so nice of you to come by, Mary! xx
Yummy Maras ice cream, I am salivating across the pond!: ) Lovely pictures Claudia, it always amazes me that you can actually cut that ice cream with knife and eat – though much better on the cone! many thanks for sharing! Can't wait to be in Eminonu soon!
We loved the vendor's shows when we had ice cream during our visit last year. Your photos are spectacular. Have a wonderful day. Blessings…Mary
Hi Mary! I remember your trip here and how much you enjoyed it. Thanks v much for your lovely comment! x
Hi Claudia again:)
I wondered if my email came thru you and touch base again. My Turkish cooking class with Istanbul Culinary Institute on Aug. 7th Tuesday is now on at the Istanbul Culinary Website as below
http://www.istanbulculinary.com/eng/certificate-programs/amateur-programs
I would be so grateful if you could spread the word -there are yummy mezzes, a smoked eggplant and garlic yoghurt dip, tray baked kebab southern Turkish style, dried caramalised apricot dessert and more in the menu. Thank you ever so much for all your help – and so sorry to miss you in Istanbul! xx Ozlem
I've just been v busy here in Assos, dear Özlem. The days seem to whizz by – I am so looking forward to speaking to you on the phone …. don't worry, I will do my best :))
I love to watch the ice cream sellers when I visit Istanbul – such fun when they play tricks with the customers.
http://missbbobochic.blogspot.co.uk/